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After I got the rods, pistons and crankshaft installed and checked the bearing clearances it was time to degree the Comp Cams camshaft. If there is one tip I can offer on degreeing the camshaft it is this: the results will only be as accurate as you are patient to make sure you have made accurate readings and measurements. Take your time and you will KNOW what your cam timing is.
Here is how I went about it. To locate Top Dead Center (TDC) I used a dial indicator and a very solid magnetic mount. If you do not have it mounted solidly your readings will be inaccurate.
Turn the engine over in its normal direction of rotation until the piston reaches its highest point. Go slow and be accurate. Set the pointer at TDC on the degree wheel. Now turn the engine over the other direction and stop when the piston is at its highest point. Mark where the pointer is on the degree wheel. TDC will be half the distance between the two marks. On my engine I was splitting about 2.5 degrees. Turn the engine over until the pointer is in the middle of the two marks you made. Without moving the crankshaft, move the degree wheel or the pointer so it lines up with TDC on the degree wheel.
At this point what I do is leave the crank alone, slip on the timing cover and damper just far enough to see if my damper markings and the “0” mark on my timing cover line up.
 Step one in starting to degree your camshaft is accurately finding Top Dead Center. For me the dial indicator makes it easier. |
 This is the coolest deal. The TCI Rattler slid right on. Be sure to use some Never-Seize of molly lube on the snout of the crank before putting the damper on. |
 I know, I have been doing it wrong! I love this Moroso tool. Installs and removes dampter so slick I couldn't believe it. If you are working on engines, GET ONE! |
It’s worth checking; my “0” mark on the timing cover was 3 degrees off from the “0” on the damper. Take that stuff back off and get the degree wheel back on the TDC mark with the pointer.
Get a dial indicator solidly mounted so you can measure the lifter travel. Turn the engine over until the dial indicator reaches maximum lift. Set the dial to “0." Turn the engine the other way until your dial indicator reads .100” of travel, then turn the engine back the other way and stop at .050”. Record the reading on the degree wheel at this point. Continue turning the engine in that same direction until the indicator reads goes to zero and then starts back down, stop when you get to .050” and write down the reading on the degree wheel. I always do this procedure a couple of times to make sure I am getting the same readings time after time. Once I am confident I can repeat the reading I continue.
Take the first reading (say it was 156 degrees) and add it to the second reading (say it was 66 degrees) and divide it by two. In this example, 156 plus 62 equals 218 and 218 divided by 2 equals 109. Your cam centerline would be 109 degrees. That is where I wanted mine so I was good to go. If you are off a couple degrees you can change to a different key way on the crank gear or use offset cam bushings to arrive at the setting suggested by your camshaft company.
IMPORTANT NOTE: If you are installing a new or different camshaft you should always check piston-to-valve clearance. Failure to do so could result in severe engine damage.
Next up for me was installing the roller lifters and the cylinder heads. I am trying a new offset lifter from Comp Cams to straighten out the intake pushrod angle. My trusty Indy Cylinder Head 440-1 heads were checked out by Woody at R&J and returned in a couple days. The Comp Cams valve springs had only lost 5 to 10 pounds of seat pressure during last season, so we expect at least another season out if them. I set the Flatout copper head gaskets in place and put the cylinder heads on. Then I cleaned up the Jesel rocker arms, oiled them up and reinstalled them.
