Once the correct pinion preload has been established, remove the pinion and yoke one last time.  Before the seal is pounded into the case, make sure the front pinion bearing remains in the case.  An old front bearing race placed on the seal can be used to pound the seal in if a seal installer is not available.  Be sure that the spring side of the seal faces into the case.  Install the pinion with preload shims, yoke, pinion nut washer, and pinion nut with red loctite and torque the nut to 240-260 ft-lbs.  Make sure to use the locking pinion nut and not the setup pinion nut.

Once you have the pinion installed you can direct you attention to installing the spool into the case correctly. Reinstall the spool and snug the adjuster nuts by hand using a wrench to slightly preload the spool and setting the backlash to within 0.008" to 0.010".  Next install the main caps in their respective positions, just barely tightening the main bolts.

The next step is to achieve the correct spool bearing preload by using the radial holes in the adjuster nuts as a tightening reference.  Using the adjuster nut wrench (this may require a small sledge or ball and peen hammer) move each adjuster nut 1 to 1-1/2 holes tighter making sure that when finished one of the holes in the adjuster nut lines up with the threaded hole in the main cap.  This is to allow the adjuster nut locking tab to engage the nut.  Repeat this procedure on both adjuster nuts so that backlash is not affected.  Then torque the main caps to 80 ft-lbs, install the adjuster nut lock tabs, and torque the button head screws to 15 ft-lbs .

The next step in putting the rear-end assembly together is to install the axles. First slide the axles in the housing making sure there is a gasket between the retaining plate and the housing end.  Next install the five T-bolts from the backside of the housing end then secure each bolt with a 3/8" locking nuts.  After tightening them initially, go back and torque each nut to 35 ft-lbs. 

This is how housings are shipped from Strange without brakes installed. When installing drum brakes, remove the axle and place the gasket between the backing plate and the housing end.

Once you have inserted the axle into the housing and secured it, the last step in the process is to apply RTV sealer to the cover flange surface and install the differential cover.  Torque the cover bolts to 35 ft-lbs.  At this point the hole for the breather in the cast center section is plugged with an 1/8" NPT plug, and a 7/16"-20 bolt with nylon washer is used to plug the hole in the housing tube for shipping purposes. 

If all has gone well you are now ready to install the S60 (Dana) under your favorite hot rod (a Mopar probably) and take it to the street, and or strip safe in the knowledge that at least the rear gear assembly is as safe and durable as a Dana 60 or a Strange Engineering version of that component can be.

One last thing that has to be done before you start burning rubber. The housings are shipped from Strange Engineering with no oil inside and require a break-in procedure consisting of gentle driving for 50 miles, then stopping to let the rear end cool. Repeat this for a minimum of 250 miles. The Strange S60 requires approximately 2 quarts of non-synthetic 85W-140 gear oil for drag racing and non-synthetic 80W-90 gear oil for street driving applications.

Happy motoring!!