Once an appropriate backlash setting is achieved, the gear contact pattern must be checked. Start by spreading marking compound on both sides of several ring gear teeth. Next, rotate the gear set several times in both directions. The ideal contact pattern on the drive side of the tooth is centered between the heel (OD) and the toe (ID) and centered between the root and the top land. If the pattern is too close to the heel then less shim is necessary between the pinion support and the case, and vice versa.

Once the correct contact pattern is achieved, check and make sure that the total preload measures between 45-50 in-lbs. You get this measurement by rotating the assembly with the pinion nut using an inch pound torque wrench. If the total preload is less than the desired amount, then tighten both adjuster nuts evenly (this will not affect contact pattern). If the pre-load is greater than 50 in-lbs., then loosen both adjuster nuts evenly. When setting the total preload, loosen/tighten the adjuster nuts one hole at a time, making sure that the hole in the adjuster nut lines up with the locking tab. When the proper pre-load is obtained, install the adjuster nut locking tabs and torque them to 15 ft-lbs.

Your third member is now assembled and ready for use on either the track or the street. After you have installed it in the carrier and before you drive or race the car there is the most critical step you have to take. FILL IT WITH OIL!!! Strange recommends non-synthetic SAE 85W-140 gear oil for drag racing applications and non-synthetic SAE 80W-90 gear oil for the street. 

Like any metal-to-metal machine, this unit requires a break in especially if you are driving it on the street. Break-in procedure is to drive the vehicle for 50 miles (No burnouts or hard leaves from the stoplight), then stop and let the case cool for 30 minutes. Repeat this for 250 miles. Finally, at 1,000 miles remove the center section and fully clean the housing and reinstall with fresh gear oil. Then let ‘er eat.