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| A look into the future! First time Muscrate has been on it's wheels since 2007. Looks good to me! |
My weight box is the same one I made and have used since 1992. I used some weld-in threaded inserts in the fuel cell / weight box cross member to fasten the rear side and another cross member made from 1x1 tubing at the front. The two battery mounts and sealed plastic boxes were sourced from Moroso and Competition Engineering. The tubular mounts were welded to the sides of the 2x3 frame rails to support the weight.
Once the floor sheet metal is welded in place over them, the Moroso sealed plastic battery boxes (# 74050) will be fastened down using the supplied hardware. These boxes are nice because in the case of a rollover, if the batteries were to leak it would all be contained and vented to the outside.
Here is a little tip for you: if you have a Fox chassis Mustang and plan to install these boxes along with massive wheel tubs, measure carefully and trial fit everything! There is just enough room for everything to fit, no more. And, the hatch will just clear the tops of the boxes when it is closed. Talk about 10 lbs. of “stuff” in a 5-lb. bag!
The next thing installed was the master electrical disconnect that was sourced from Moroso (#74102). It is a heavy duty switch capable of handling 300 amps continuous and has two pairs of copper studs (½”-20 and 10-32) to allow connecting anything your heart desires. I also sourced a push/pull type mounting kit (#74105) so that I could mount the #74102 switch inside on the frame rail and just have a simple ½” black anodized aluminum rod sticking out of the back of the car to activate it. After some careful measuring I determined the position of the hole in the panel next to the license plate and drilled it the proper size for the included grommet.
Mounting the Kirkey seats shouldn’t have been a big deal, but leave it to me to make things complicated! The passenger side was easy. I simply used some universal mounting tabs and welded them to the sub-frame connector. I also made mounts for a spare 5-point safety harness in case I want to scare somebody with a short ride some day. The driver’s side, however, was a bitch. I knew what I wanted to do but I swear I had a creative block that was to go down in the annals of history! I decided I wanted to make the driver’s seat track adjustable. I’m probably the only person that will ever drive the car more than once, but you never know I guess. It just seemed like the thing to do. 
Am I bringing up Michael right or what? Looks like a future crew chief to me!
In a nutshell, what I did was take the factory-style Ford seat track from the old seats and cut and welded and cut and welded some more until I got the track assembly at the right angle in the car to give me a slightly reclined posture and kept my head below the roll cage. Then I built a sliding tube mechanism that attaches to the back of the seat at the headrest position that has a multitude of holes drilled in it to correspond with every half inch of seat movement. Man, what the hell is wrong with me?! Now that it’s done, it’s pretty cool I think, but what a time consuming pain in the butt!
Well, that’s all my time for now, but next month, I promise, I will show how I constructed chrome moly wheelie bars from a kit by Competition Engineering, mount the Barry Grant fuel pump and filter, trim the outer wheel openings for clearance, and finish up the 9-inch rear end housing. Man, I better get busy! I only have until next April!
Until next time always remember, there is always hope,
And, when in doubt… DO A WHEELIE!!!
Source: Moroso, www.moroso.com and Competition Engineering, www. competitionengineering.com