Volume X, Issue 8, Page 124

For a drag race baseline on the rear, first set the rebound adjuster to the hardest (full clockwise) position. This means the shock will be hard to extend.  Basically, this means the body will not be separating easily.  It’s essentially a very conservative starting point. 

This is Strange Engineer’s starting point advise for rear single adjustable drag race shock setup:

Drag Race:

* Turn to position 5 (position “1” is full counterclockwise)
* To plant the tires harder, rotate counterclockwise
* To decrease wheel hop, rotate clockwise

Street: 

* Turn to position 4 or 5 (position “1” is full counterclockwise)
* For firmer ride, rotate clockwise  


Next, set the compression adjuster to full soft (full counterclockwise) position.  This means the shock will be easy to compress.  The car will droop at the back (again, a very conservative setting to get you started).  At this point, you can use the suggestions in the text to setup the car for various track conditions.

What about back double adjustables? A double adjustable shock allows adjustment of the compression valving and rebound valving.  In a Strange Engineering double adjustable, the compression is adjusted by adjusting the marked knob from 1 (full counterclockwise) to 12 (full clockwise). The rebound adjuster is extremely sensitive to change. 1 click will make a significant change in tuning the chassis.

Each car will require a different setting when it comes to sophisticated double adjustable shocks.  Chassis builder Jerry Bickel notes:

“A good starting point for rear shock adjustment is to set the rebound adjustment tight and the bump adjuster loose.  Remember that the final setting that is best for your car must be found with some thoughtful trial and error and may change with track conditions.”

Which End Do You Adjust First?

So, you have the shocks.  You know how to adjust them.  And you know how to install them on your car.  Now what?  Try this:

Step #1:  Front or Back?  If the car wheel stands excessively or bounces on the gear change (more likely), adjust the front shocks first.  If the car rattles the rear tires, wheel hops or has way too much body separation, then adjust the rear shock absorbers first.

Step #2:  Front Shock Adjustment:  The idea is to get a smooth transition in the front-end movement as the car launches right through the first gear change.  Bouncing and jerking motions do not help the launch or the ET for that matter.  If the car is violent on the launch and physically jerks the front wheels off the ground, the shock setting is too soft or loose.  If the car bounces on the gear change the shock needs to be stiffer.  When the car bounces on the gear change, it's coming down on the front suspension travel limiter, and then bouncing back up again. Obviously, if the shock is set too tight (stiff), then the front won't move sufficiently to transfer weight.  On a similar note, a too-stiff setting on the front shock will bounce the car on the tire after the launch.  Don't get this confused with bouncing off the limiter.

Step #3:  Rear Shock Adjustment:  When it comes to the back shock absorber, the idea is to shock the tire as hard as possible (track conditions permitting).  Keep in mind that it's the shock that actually controls how much force or "hit" your applying to the slick.  If the shock is too loose on the extension (rebound), then you might get way too much rear body separation.  If the shock is too tight, then the car will flatten the tire excessively or simply cause the car to spin.  Generally speaking, start soft on the rear and keep tightening up the valving until the car slows down.  

Source

Strange Engineering
8300 North Austin Ave.
Morton Grove IL. 60053
847-663-1701
www.strangeengineering.net


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