The next thing you will need is a means of keeping the rear-end centered in the car and for that you can use a traditional “diagonal link” which runs, um, diagonal, from one side of the chassis bracket to the opposite side housing bracket or you can go for the gusto like me and use what is called a “wishbone” track locator. A wishbone locator is shaped like a, um, wishbone, and it has a couple advantages over the diagonal link. First, a wishbone locator has absolutely no bind when the chassis and housing move up and down in relation to one another due to the center “slip tube” design and, second, you can mount a wishbone either on top or bottom of the suspension and that can help free up some space under the car.
I chose the Magnum series once again (part #C2024) and it is made from chrome moly tubing for light weight and strength, and features weld-in tube inserts and a centerless ground precision sliding link and 5/8” mounting holes to go along with the Magnum 4 link.
I am also going to be re-using my existing Comp Engineering Anti-Roll bar assembly (part #C2020) that I installed last year. It was an exact fit unit made specifically for Mustangs but I am modifying it to fit between the new 2”x3” frame rails. If I were starting from scratch, Comp has a universal Anti- Roll bar available (part #C2041) that is the same but uses different mounts.
 This is what the stock "unibody" frame rails look like in Mustangs. Not a whole lot to them and it's amazing they last as long as they do. |
Speaking of frame rails, I ordered a pair of Comp Engineering universal 4 link 2”x3” mandrel bent units (part #C3060) hoping that I could make them fit the Super Stock rules. For most of you these would work great and save a lot of time, but as I will show later I was forced to make my own to fit the rules.
About the only parts left are the coil-overs and I am once again reusing the Comp Engineering 12-way adjustable units I had last year (part #C2770). The bottom of the shock fastens to the built-in Magnum 4 link brackets and the top is attached to the universal upper coil-over mount (part #C2046).
Well then, now we have the basic plan and essential parts procured so it is time to get dirty and make some sparks! The first thing to do is get the car up in the air and supported securely with the proper jack stands. Go ahead and get it as high in the air as you can and then do the best job you can muster of making sure the car is as level as level can be. Even if you have a not-so-level floor to work on like I do, it is possible by using shims on the jack stands to get the job done. Trust me, the time you spend now will pay dividends later on.
 Here we see the floor completely removed and the inside wheelhouse trimmed away. I will be installing new wheel tubs later along with re-installing part of the stock floor. |
Also, I must say that the instructions that come with all of the Comp Engineering products are very good and complete, especially the Magnum 4 link instructions. Because the instructions are so complete I don’t see the need for me to cover every little detail of installing the parts involved in the project because it takes up too much space and you can read. Instead, I think I may have a few little tips for you I have learned over the years that make life easier and hopefully produce a better result.