Volume IX, Issue 8, Page 110

To keep the weight down I am using titanium retainers (#732-16), 10-degree Super Locks with a lash cap recess (#611-16), and lash caps (#621-16) to help protect the end of the valves and spread the load a little more. The current trend in valve train technology, of which Comp Cams is a pioneer, is to make the rocker arms and pushrods as stiff as possible to minimize deflection and cut down on power robbing harmonics which will prematurely wear out valve springs and cost power among other things. So, I am using the ultra stiff Comp Hi-Tech Stainless Steel 1.7 ratio (#1134-16) roller units. They are comparable in weight to aluminum rockers but they are much stiffer and won’t deflect as much under high loads.

These little beauties are the Comp Cams 3/8” diameter .135” wall one-piece pushrods that make it all happen. Nice!

Actuating the rocker arms are some 3/8” diameter .135” wall 7.100” long custom pushrods. Yes, I had them custom made, but so can you so it still qualifies as generally available for this project as far as I’m concerned. Just a call to Comp Cams is all it takes. If one of these little beauties bends or breaks I’ve got serious problems! I will say that using the 3/8” pushrods with these heads is not a drop-in deal. I had to buy some Isky


The Comp Cams Hi-Tech stainless 1.7 rocker arms, Endurance valve springs, titanium retainers, and rocker stud girdle. Notice the small cut on the end of the girdle where I made it into two pieces for ease of assembly.
adjustable 3/8” guide plates (#ISK 300-AGP) to get the rocker arms to connect with the valve stems where I wanted and I had to open up the pushrod holes in the heads with a ½” reamer and then do some hand “massaging” with a die grinder. If I were to use a less serious cam and valve spring setup I would just use heavy wall 5/16” pushrods. As a side note, I ended up with .752” intake and .728” exhaust lift with “0” valve lash and lash caps installed. The geometry created by all of these components is what is responsible for this.

Finally, keeping everything in its respective position is a Comp rocker arm stud girdle (#4015) made specifically for the

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RHS and Ford Motorsport heads. It is a solid bar design and I cut it into two halves with a simple cut on both ends in order to make installation a little easier and less offensive to the rocker studs. Much better than using a hammer to get them started as some people do! I also should note that I replaced the ARP rocker studs that came with the RHS heads with some slightly taller and stronger ARP Hi-Tech series studs.

Covering it all up is a pair of trick fabricated aluminum Moroso valve covers (#68325). I’m using these for a specific reason besides the fact that they look cool!

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