We will use the AFCO T2 double adjustable shocks and their 125-pound springs to get started. Since this dragster will have Mopar power we expect having to try a couple different rear spring rates to get it right. The Mopar weighs more than a Chevy and the torque curve is different. For those reasons, if I have to try a couple springs it will not surprise me.
 We have nothing but success and no problems with AFCO acing Products. We chose their radiator and fan assembly to keep our 540 Mopar cool. |
We have also chosen the AFCO radiator with a fan and shroud. American made, hand crafted and proven durable we feel it is the best piece out there. It will serve us for years and offer high efficiency cooling when we get the call to start hot-lapping the car in the late rounds.
Assembly Tips:
I realize a lot of you readers have built cars before so bear with me here. These are just some reminders for the old-timers and some ideas for the new guys.
1. Race Cars and dragsters in particular vibrate A LOT! We use nothing but Grade 8 bolts and Grade 8 Ny-Loc nuts to assemble racecars. There is no excuse to use anything less than the best fasteners.
2. If you are attaching a part that is threaded, like the disc brake calipers and mounting brackets, we always use Loctite thread locker. You can get a couple tubes for about $10.00 and it is a great way to prevent critical bolts from working loose and creating a problem later.
3. Trial fit everything! We never assume anything will actually fit. Put it together, make sure it aligns properly and all holes line up. When you feel confident it will work then you can use the Loctite and Ny-Loc nuts. **Editor note: I have used nothing but Strange Engineering components for rear-ends and brakes and they have always been perfect. I
still do trial assembly of them and I would bet their tech support team would tell you that it is a good idea.
4. THINK! Before you cut, grind, file or modify some part. Would it fit another way? Is there a better way to mount something? It will take a little longer to finish the entire project with this mindset but the results will be much better. Of course you have to use wire ties and some homemade brackets, just make sure you aren’t using them because you got lazy and didn’t think it through.
5. Use the best quality components you can afford and when it comes to safety items BUY ONLY THE BEST. Suspension rod ends, safety harness, fuel system mounting and hoses, etc. The extra time or money it takes to keep the car as safe as you can is the BEST INVESTMENT you will make. Does that mean you need 1000 psi braided stainless steel hose for your fuel line from your fuel cell to your fuel pump? No, not in my opinion. We are using 250 psi black push-loc hose from Jegs. It is half the cost, looks great and most importantly will handle the demands we will put on it. There are certain pressure lines we believe overkill is called for. Transmission cooling lines, oil pressure lines and external oil lines on our Mopars get the best stainless steel lines we can get. They are under pressures of 200 psi and are installed and removed often. Again, THINK before you buy and understand what you buy.
