 This is the backside of the K&R Delay Box dash mount kit. All the wires came assembled and everything was already labeled. If there is an easier way to do this I haven't seen it. |
Delay Box: It made sense to go with the K&R Delay Box as the wiring looms match and it is a championship caliber piece of electronics. It has all the features we will ever need (plus a few we haven’t used before!). It performs as a delay box for your side of the tree, a crossover delay box and you can set BOTH bump-down and bump-up buttons should you choose to do so. Having both bump-up and bump-down buttons is probably a “bit much” for us but the option is there if you feel the need and have room for the buttons. The dash mounting kit comes pre-wired and labeled. This is another way K&R Performance makes life a lot easier when it comes to wiring a new car or even if you are thinking about cleaning up that “rat’s nest” under your dash.
Final Assembly begins:
 We chose the T2 AFCO racing shocks to control the rear suspension of the S&W swingarm. Double-adjustable and reliable they will serve us well. We are starting with 14" 125 lb. AFCO springs. If I was a betting man I would say we will end up with something in the 110 lb. range but time will tell. (*Project 4-Link is a mono-shock design and we use a single 350 lb spring on it and it has always been a relatively stiff suspension that works.) |
The rear end housing, the mid-plate and front motor plates are all back from the local powder-coater and turned out nice for under $45.00. The mid-plate is really an adapter that S&W made for us that will allow us to bolt it to the Big Block Mopar and have a GM Power-Glide bolt pattern on the other side. This allows us to have use stock GM transmission cases or the aftermarket ones available.
You must run a lateral engine limiter to hold the engine in place under acceleration. The S&W part serves a couple purposes for us. First, it bolts to the rear of the transmission and has adjustable struts that fasten to brackets on the chassis. That ends any rearward or forward movement of the drive-train. The large tube on top of the limiter serves as our required transmission
overflow catch can and is a great handle for use during transmission removal and installation. This is just one of many innovations on the S&W swing-arm dragster.
We made a “fixture” a couple years ago that we use when changing heim-ends or installing new 4-link suspension parts to make sure the bars are the same length. It is simply a ½” thick piece of steel bar stock with a hole and bolt in one end and a slot in the other end with another bolt and lock nut. If you are replacing heim-ends we just take the suspension bar, lay it on the fixture over the bolts and lock them down. Then after replacing the rod-ends you simply adjust them until they slide right over the bolts on the fixture. Makes getting them back to the same length a no-brainer and we probably spent $20.00 to make the tool. On the S&W chassis all we did was make sure the swing-arm rod-ends were the same center-to-center on both sides and the top bars were the same length center to center. After we checked that we tightened the jam nuts.
