The nose is a separate piece and there are two aluminum side panels that run next to the engine so we have four pieces total. (My Project 4-Link consists of 18 separate panels). We also opted for the recessed tow hook (just in case!!) that fits flush with the nose of the car and simply flips up when needed. Nice option for about $100.00.
We had them install mini-headlamps on the front spindle supports. They cost less than $75.00 and the brackets are welded on. (I am using wire ties and Velcro on the other dragster.)
Andy is going to give the new S&W “flat-style” butterfly steering wheel a try. He used a “D-shaped” wheel in the old dragster and this is a different spin on that idea.
S&W Race Cars will custom make your dash at no additional cost. All you do is tell them what gauges you want to use and how you want them laid out, the brand and location of delay box and switch panel. Ours was extremely basic. They use their in-house water-jet equipment and cut the dash for our K&R Delay Box and the K&R switch panel. We will be debuting a great new instrument package from Computech Systems called DATA-MAXX. Wait ‘til you see this deal, it’s the schnizzle! More details, including installation next month on the new DATA-MAXX from Computech.
Battery – Wiring – Delay Box:
We mounted the MSD Digital Ignition and the K&R fuse / relay panel on the S&W ignition tray. 15 minutes and it was mounted on shock
absorbing isolators.
We will be using the V-Battery 16 volt AGM battery that has worked so well in our other project car, “Project 4-Link”. S&W made the mount specifically for the V-Battery, which is pretty large and heavy but still 40 pounds less than 2 Optimas and we won’t need an alternator so that saves another 25 pounds. We will be using 2-gauge welding cable for all the main power and ground cables.
 Here is a photo showing the dash and steering wheel. The dash has been cut out for the K&R switch panel and the K&R Delay Box. The steering wheel is the new S&W designed "flat butterfly". Pre-drilled for locating buttons I think it will replace a lot of the thicker D-shaped wheel currently in use. |
The wiring will consist of the K&R Performance Wiring Kit. In all my years of racing and wiring racecars I have never seen a better package, PERIOD! Kevin, at K&R Performance, has put together a switch panel, fuse block / relay panel that makes wiring a racecar simple with professional results.
First I want to mention the switch panel. Not only is it a nice looking piece but the quality is the best I have seen. They have included two LED lights on each end of the panel to light the back of the panel and the floor or cockpit for night racing. A connector cord is already wired that just plugs all the wires from the K&R Switch Panel into the K&R fuse panel. His schematic is a full-color laminated drawing that is about 2’x2’ and very well detailed.
Every wire has its own color and the name of the circuit printed right on the wire insulation. The fuse block (though it is much more) has every terminal labeled so all you have to do is strip ¼” off the end of the correct color wire, slide it in the proper spot and tighten the screw down on it. Plug your wires into the labeled terminals and run the wires to the accessory labeled on the wire. It cannot be easier to wire a car correctly. I have enclosed a couple photos that show the layout and details of the K&R Wiring Kit.