HELMETS: WHAT THE SAFETY INSPECTOR LOOKS FOR
Simpson's new Diamond style helmet offers air control features to keep you head steady in open cockpit racing and wide eyeports to help with periphial vision. Simpson also offers many custom colors. Check with your dealer or at www.teamsimpson.com |
If you have been racing for many years or are just about to get started with a Jr. Dragster or a Street Stock car the helmet is no doubt the single most important piece of equipment you will purchase. When I was 10 years old and needed my first helmet my dad told me to get the very best. I went to a motorcycle shop and got a Bell helmet. I crashed that Go-Kart several times and went upside down on my head twice. That old Bell never let me down. I still buy the best helmet I can get and have stressed to my sons to do the same thing. You can spend from $199.00 to $1200.00 for helmets that meet the same SFI and Snell specs. The one you choose is up to you.
The three key factors in choosing a helmet are:
- You must know what the requirements are for your type of racing to make sure you get the correct helmet. If you race in NHRA or IHRA drag racing you will be looking for a Snell or SFI certification on a sticker inside the helmet. In sportsman and E.T. classes your helmet must be tagged as follows: Snell K98 (expires 1/1/09; Snell 2000 expires 1/1/2012; Snell 2005 expires 1/1/2017. SFI 31.1A, 31.2A, 41.1A, 41.2A all expire 1/1/2014. SFI 31.1/2005 and SFI41.2A/2005 expire 1/1/2017. When you talk to the dealer about your helmet have these numbers ready so you buy the correct helmet with the longest possible expiration date.
Proper Fit. It is probably the easiest thing to make a mistake on. Take a cloth measuring tape and measure your head about one inch up from your eyebrows and around your head until you get the largest dimension. That length, in inches and fractions of an inch, will be how you determine the exact size helmet you need. Top quality helmet manufacturers all have websites that tell you how to determine correct sizes and how to convert themeasurement to a helmet size. Local retail stores can also help you get it done right the first time. Some manufacturers like Impact, Simpson and Bell offer different thickness “cheek pads” to get the correct fit. The helmet should fit snug enough it won’t bounce around or lift up on you when you accelerate of are going down the track. If you can turn it sideways when it is buckled up, it is too big. The more it conforms to your head the better it will spread the impact out and the better your chances are of walking away from a bad wreck.
- Type of Helmet: This is always a hard choice. Personally, I think a full-coverage type helmet offers the best protection. They are now being manufactured with larger eye-ports that offer better peripheral vision. That would be my choice if I raced a door car so I could see out if it a little better in racing conditions. Helmets are made from a variety of materials. From fiberglass compounds, special resins, composite materials to completely hand-laid carbon fiber. Typical weight for a race helmet is about 5 pounds. If you race in circle track or karting events a lighter helmet could reduce neck fatigue and the carbon fiber are the lightest (and the most expensive). My personal choice is still a Bell helmet. I use the M2 Xtra (believe me it isn’t convenient to find a size 8 ¼ Snell helmet!) made from special high-strength composites and equipped with a F.A.S.T. fresh air system to ventilate the helmet via a helmet mounted fan. The helmet and remote fans are great safety items if you wear glasses in my opinion. No more fogged over glasses when racing on humid nights, circulating air helps prevent me from overheating and losing my concentration on hot afternoons. For about $200.00 I think they are a bargain.
- Head and Neck Restraints: If you have a HANS or R3 or a Hutchens you will need special “attachment clips” on your helmet. Your helmet manufacturer can handle that for you when you order. Even if you don’t have a head and neck restraint yet, I would get them installed. It will cost less to do it now versus sending it back in and hoping they can get right to it later. Plan on about $50.00 for the clips. If you are still undecided about whether you need a Head and Neck Restraint go to www.lfttech.com.
