- Fifth, when making or inspecting the mounting brackets or tabs as you hook up the new or used harness make sure the mounting tabs are “double shear” style. This means two tabs with the harness attachment hardware between the tabs. The attachment bolt should then “bottom-out” and become tight before pinching the tabs together. This will allow the harness attachment hardware to swivel freely. Much like a rod-end on suspension, if the
attachment hardware can swivel it will align itself on impact and prevent the belt from “bunching up” and possibly getting loose or cut.ADVERTISEMENT
Sixth, check where the harness comes through the floor or body panels and make sure there is enough clearance to prevent the body panels from rubbing on the harness andpossibly cutting into the fabric.
Seventh, inspect the harness every week just like you do other critical components. I understand it is easy to not worry about them but if they are fraying or something has been rubbing on them wouldn’t you rather find that BEFORE you need them to protect you?
Eighth, last but not least by any means are the arm restraints. In a rollover situation these are critical to keep you arms from getting outside the roll cage and being crushed. They should be attached between the elbow and the wrist and hook up to the main harness so when the latch is released the arm restraints are instantly free. If you have your arm restraints on and you can reach outside the roll cage, THINK AGAIN! Is that where you want your arm to be in case of an accident? Of course they limit arm travel a little bit, but they work if you tighten them properly.
FIRE PROTECTION FOR THE DRIVER
 Another example of how sharp custom-made racing suits can look and still offer the best possible protection. The days of baggy old black firesuits are just about over with the advent of new softer filament fabrics. |
This comes in many forms, colors and styles. Basically, you need to protect yourself from burn injury for a certain amount of time. There are four SFI-ratings; each is for a certain classification of car and the threat of fire they present.
Rating:
3.2A/20: Fuel Funny Car and Top Alcohol Funny Car
3.2A/15: Top Fuel Dragster and Top Alcohol Dragster
3.2A/5: E.T. (7.50 sec. To 9.99 sec), S/G, S/C, S/S (faster than 9.99)
3.2A/1: E.T. (10.00 sec to 11.49 sec.), Stock and S/S (10.0 and slower).
One of the decisions you have to make is whether you want a one-piece or a two-piece fire resistant driving suit. The most common in sportsman racing is the two-piece mainly because it is easier to take to the staging lanes where you might end up waiting over an hour before you run. If you are scheduled to make runs at certain times the one-piece suit might be a better choice as it protects the lower back more effectively as there is no opening for fire or hot liquid to enter.
Like all equipment you should inspect your fire suit each week. Look for zippers that are sticking and might fail. Look at the fabric, is it worn where the harness rub against it, are there any small holes or torn areas? If it is worn of defective REPLACE IT! You would replace a broken valve spring if it were worn out, right? Do the same with your fire resistant driving apparel.
