We used all three pads for the backrest since we wanted to be a little more upright than the actual angle of the seat.
 When you have trimmed the pads to fit the seat contours you trial fit a few times them glue them into the plastic bag. |
Determine the amount of padding you want under your butt and behind your back. (We used three layers behind us to provide a little more “sit-up” when strapped in.) The special sheets of foam material are included to do this. You have to trim the pieces so they will lay flat against the seat. This took about 15 minutes and was simple.
Next up was the plastic bag to pour the liquid foam into. Lay it out flat and center the “butt pad” you trimmed against the bottom of the bag. We sprayed a little 3M Adhesive on one side of the foam before we slipped it in so it would stay in place. Fold the right and left sides of the bag over the top of the foam insert you put in the bag. Now you will take the bag and get ready to insert it into the seat.
Pull the backing paper off the two-sided tape and lay the bag into the seat. Note: Be careful not to tear or poke any holes in the plastic bag. If you accidentally tear it, use gray tape or packaging tape to repair any potential leak problems.
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| These are the two chemicals that when mixed together form the foam. You get these buckets, great instructions, a special mixer blade for a drill and foam inserts in the Pour in Place seat kit. | The bag with the pads in it have been formed to the seat and the double-sided tape holds it in place. Use all the tape you need to hold the bag so it doesn't fold up when the driver gets in. |
Keep the bottom of the bag (the sealed end) along the front lower edge of the seat. Try to keep the bag as flat as possible and press it against the tape. You should have 10-12” of bag left that is higher than the driver’s shoulders. This is where you will pour the foam mix in. Tape up the top of the bag so it will not fall in behind the driver.
Now it’s time for the driver to get ready. You should wear all your racing equipment. Fire jacket, pants, helmet, R3, HANS. Hutchens, etc. I recommend a good waxing of the helmet and R3 or HANS or taping it to keep any splatter from the foam mix off it. We also masked the roll bar and frame rails around our seat to keep cleanup easy in case I spilled (or should I say, when I spilled!) You are just about ready to pour the seat.
Have the driver try to get as many big wrinkles out of the jacket and pants as he or she can. There are several pieces of ½” foam to use behind the driver. If you are going to use an R3 or Hutch Hybrid head and neck restraint ISP suggests you cut at least one piece of foam to fit around the restraint. We used three pieces behind us and cut the top piece to clear the R3 so our back was flat against another two layers of foam. Trial fit it a few times to make sure you have everything trimmed and fitting before the pour begins. We used 3M adhesive spray to hold the layers of foam together and then glued them into the bag while the driver leaned forward.
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