The magnet for the rear door was mounted close to the cable attachment because it is the most protected there. If it is not protected it could easily be kicked off or hit by a floor jack, etc.
I had to use a little piece of aluminum to make a 1/8” thick spacer to get the rear door and the body sensor to line up. You can pop the cover off the sensors and locate the predrilled holes in the sensor body. Mark the door or wall and you are ready to mount the sensors. Drill a couple 3/64” holes for each sensor and screw them in place. I have only two doors on my trailer, the side door and the rear door. If you have a generator door don’t forget to get a third sensor. You don’t want someone prying open that door without the alarm giving them a big surprise.
 Here is what I had when I cut the box open. Two remotes are in the center, sensors towards the bottom in center. The siren is one loud little unit! The “brain box” and LED indicator is at top and to the left. |
You can use more than the siren if you want. You can hook the yellow wires up to do a couple different things. The yellow wires can be used to flash the clearance lights and taillights, and they can be hooked to the trailer brake wire and turn the trailer brakes on and off. The trailer brake wire is next on my agenda, but it was so cold this week that is going to have to wait for some better weather.
To use the yellow wires to accomplish either of these tasks you will need to buy a couple standard automotive 12V 30-amp relays. The relays are wired to battery power and the yellow wire becomes the switch to turn the relay on and off. The instructions are easy to follow and offer a little extra “surprise” for the bad guys!
Once you get the wiring laid out the way you want and you have hooked up the positive and negative cables to the battery you are ready to test the system. Install the fuse into the positive battery cable and this will get the system ready to go.
I did a little shimming of the side door sensor to get a little more clearance; remember you want a minimum of 1/8” but not a ¼”.
I plugged in the fuse and gave it the test. To arm the unit you push the P2 button on the remote. When you do that you have 30 seconds to shut the trailer door and exit in normal situations, like you are leaving the trailer unattended at the track or at home in the driveway. You know the system is armed when the red light on the LED pad is blinking.
The next test is to make sure you can turn the alarm off. Push the P1 button on the remote to disarm the system so you can enter the trailer. If you do this, the alarm is still “active” but it is disabled. To turn the alarm off, push P1 twice in a row. If you want to enter the trailer and the alarm is working, siren going off or lights blinking, you can push the P1 button one time to shut off the alarm but it needs to be pushed twice to shut the system off. If you don’t turn it off it will start again as it will still be protecting your trailer and contents.
This is a pretty neat little item that can result in a huge savings for you. At a retail price of about $299 and $59.95 for additional door sensors it offers a lot of protection for a low price. The best part is that you can install it yourself, it comes with two remotes (so when I lose one, I’m still in business!). It is a product I would recommend to anyone who wants to enhance the security of their trailer and the contents.
SOURCE BOX: |
| Advanced Wireless Technology 126 Red Brook Lane Mooresville, NC 28117 704-576-6971 www.tommyjohnsonjr.com/wireless |
